Morocco Series Part 6: Tafraoute Goats, Essaouira Seafood & Marrakech’s First Act
Goats in Trees & the Argan Oil Origin Story Nobody Asked For
We left Tafraoute and the Atlas Mountains in the morning, heading west toward Essaouira. The highlight of the drive came dangling from trees: goats. Yes, actual goats perched in argan trees, munching away on the fruit like it’s their personal buffet. It’s hilarious until you realize they’re part of the argan oil production chain. Nature’s little tricks.
For those interested in the details, here’s the glamorous truth: argan oil starts with goat digestion. The animals can’t digest the seeds, so they either spit them out (clean and ready for processing) or pass them through their digestive system, softening the shell in the process. Either way, the goats do the prep work. Humans then collect the debris (a polite word for goat poop), crack the shells, roast the kernels, grind them into paste, and knead out the oil. It takes about 30 kilos of nuts to produce one kilo of oil. That’s a lot of goat labor (and poop). It resembles the process of making elephant coffee—Black Ivory Coffee—except the elephants don’t have to climb trees for their beans. Easier work.
Nowadays, production is mostly done in women-run cooperatives—similar to saffron farming. The cosmetic-grade oil is prized for its skin benefits, but the culinary version is a nutty little surprise. Pricey, yes, but you only need a few drops. I bought a couple of bottles. No regrets.
Goats eating argan fruit.
Agadir: A Detour, Not a Destination
We made a quick detour to Agadir—a modern beach city with wide boulevards and a vibe that screams “package holiday.” It’s fine. But Essaouira, just up the coast, is where things get interesting. Smaller, breezier, and infinitely more charming. The fishing port is buzzing, the arts scene is alive, and the medina (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is a maze of whitewashed walls and blue doors. The nightlife is also quite vibrant. It is one of those places you want to stay one more day.
Essaouira: Fish, Salt, and Zero Pretense
Upon arrival, we skipped the usual hotel check-in routine and went straight to the fish market. Maybe not the cleanest place in the world, but the food is simple and perfect. Dozens of restaurants compete for your attention. We settled on a place that served monkfish, shrimp, langoustines, salad, and fries. Nothing fancy—just fresh, grilled, and perfect.
Essaouira fish market – catch of the day
Here I am the surgeon dissecting the monk fish
Cars aren’t allowed in the medina, so we hired one of the many cart-wielding men to haul our bags to Riad Al Zahia. The hotel was fine. The rooftop view (where they also serve breakfast) was great. Sadly, we only had one night in Essaouira. The medina is a bit touristy, but it’s still a joy to wander: art galleries, shops, bars with live music, and that laid-back coastal vibe.
Inside one of the art galleries in Essaouira medina
Next stop: Marrakech. And if Morocco were a movie, Marrakech would be the acting star.
Marrakech Arrival: The City That Knows It’s Famous
We arrived in Marrakech and said goodbye to Muhammad, our driver for the past two weeks. It was a bit emotional—not just because the trip was nearing its end, but because Muhammad was genuinely great. Funny, helpful, and full of insights about Morocco’s culture, quirks, and contradictions. He was far more than a driver; he was our unofficial ambassador.
We checked into La Maison Arabe, a lovely 5-star hotel. Not quite La Mamounia (more on that in the next post), but still a solid choice. The rooms are spacious, the service impeccable, and the breakfast buffet was full of delicacies and could feed a small army. The only downside? The place goes into hibernation in the late evening. The bar closes early, and the vibe is more “spa retreat” than “nightlife.” Still, highly recommended—just don’t expect a party.
La Maison Arabe – the patio in one of the two buildings
Our room at La Maison Arabe
Djemaa el-Fna: The Calm Before the Chaos
First stop: Djemaa el-Fna. We’d read about it before arriving, and it lived up to the hype—eventually. In the afternoon, it’s relatively tame: juice stands, ice cream carts, and a few sweet stalls. We climbed to a rooftop café and watched the square slowly wake up. It’s like observing a volcano before it erupts.
We wandered through the medina, got pulled into shops we didn’t plan to enter, and bought souvenirs we didn’t need (not different than in many other places in the country). Moroccan merchants could sell sand in the Sahara. Resistance is futile.
Djemaa el Fna in the afternoon. Not so exciting at that time of the day.
Netta checking one of the local traditional instruments, which we eventually bought
Dinner at Nomad: Where the Sardine Tarte Stole the Show
Dinner was at Nomad (not the one in NYC, though the name drop could be intentional). It’s Moroccan cuisine with a modern twist. The lamb chops were tender and juicy, but the sardine tarte stole the show—fresh herbs, some of which brought nice bitterness, and others balanced with a bit of sweetness, covered umami-packed sardines, preserved lemon, spicy chilies, and that glorious Moroccan olive oil. Even if quite simple, it was the best dish we had in Morocco.
Sardine tarte at Nomad Restaurant in Marrakech
Highlights
- Tree-climbing goats & argan oil reality check
Nature’s weirdest interns kick off the trip with digestive contributions to Morocco’s beauty industry. - Essaouira’s fish market frenzy
Monkfish, langoustines, and salad in a slightly grimy but gloriously fresh seafood haven. - Riad Al Zahia & medina logistics
No cars allowed, but plenty of cart-wielding men ready to haul your luggage like it’s treasure. - Essaouira’s artsy, touristy charm
UNESCO medina, live music, and galleries—just enough vibe to make you wish for one more night. - Marrakech madness begins
Goodbye to our more-than-only-driver Muhammad, hello mint tea, medina chaos, and rooftop coffee surveillance. - Nomad restaurant’s sardine tarte revelation
A modern Moroccan masterpiece: sardines, herbs, chilies, and olive oil in perfect harmony.
FAQ – Essaouira and Marrakech
Is Essaouira worth a stop even for just one night?
Yes. It’s breezy, charming, and fun. You’ll wish you had more time.
Is La Maison Arabe a good alternative to La Mamounia?
Absolutely—unless you want nightlife. Then you’ll need to look elsewhere.
Do the goats really climb trees?
Yes. And they are so hungry they don’t care about the passerby.
Is Nomad Marrakech a good restaurant?
Yes. Strongly recommended. Order the sardine tarte and thank me later.
Next: Part 7 From Marrakech to Casablanca: A Moroccan Finale→