Morocco Series Part 1: Practical and Useful Tips, Unsolicited Opinions, and Culinary Controversies
Why Morocco?
We’d long wanted to visit Morocco—a country where African, Arab, Berber, and European influences mix together in a kaleidoscope of color, sound, and occasional sensory overload. We came to see the cities and villages with their unique architecture, to get lost in the labyrinthine souks (on purpose, mostly), and to better understand Morocco’s ancient traditions. But let’s be honest: we mostly came for the Sahara.
Sunset in the Sahara
Uganda gave us wildlife. The airline gave us a detour to Istanbul that defied physics. And yet, against all odds, we eventually landed in Morocco. We spent 18 days in Morocco, executing one of our loop itineraries—efficient, feasible and just at the edge of being chaotic but without triggering a logistical meltdown.
Our Morocco tour map (from Casablanca to Casablanca)
A Quick Shout-Out
Before diving into the details, credit where it’s due: Yassine, our travel fixer, was very good. He offered great suggestions, handled bookings that we could not make, and had someone on call whenever things got wobbly. He even reimbursed us for a hotel that didn’t live up to our expectations—a rare move in the travel industry, where “customer service” often means “we’ll get back to you never.” Thanks again, Yassine.
Things to Know Before You Go (or at least before you go back)
Money
The Moroccan Dirham (MAD) was worth about US$0.10. Canadian dollars? too exotic—don’t bother. Stick to Euros, Pounds, or USD. ATMs are plentiful, Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted, and AMEX is mostly treated like a distant cousin who shows up uninvited. Always ask for a receipt when exchanging money. You may need it later, especially if you try to convert leftover Dirhams back—though frankly, it’s easier to spend them on snacks and souvenirs you didn’t know you needed.
Shopping & Haggling
Moroccans are persuasive. They can sell sand to desert people. You’ll walk into a shop “just browsing” and leave with a lamp, a rug, and a leather pouf you’ll have to leave at the airport because of overweight. Haggling is expected and oddly enjoyable once you accept that the first price is fiction. If you agree on a price, buy the item—backing out is considered rude. Think of it as theatre with a financial twist.
Accommodation
Morocco offers everything from backpacker hostels to palatial hotels. Most tourists opt for riads—traditional homes with courtyards, often located inside medinas (the old, historic, and often walled part of a city). Some are stunning. Others are… character-building. A beautiful riad is a dream. A bad one is a medieval Airbnb. Do your homework before booking, especially if you value sleep and clean, functioning showers.
Tipping Cheat Sheet
Tipping is customary and expected:
- Hotel porters: 5 MAD per bag
- Medina trolley porters: 20–50 MAD (could even go up to double) depending on distance and drama
- Hotel staff: 5–10 MAD per person/day
- Restaurant servers: 10%
- Public toilets: 1 MAD (worth it)
- Drivers: 75–100 MAD/day
- Guides: 80–120 MAD/day
- Camel drivers: 20–30 MAD per person
- Desert camp staff: 20–30 MAD per person
Safety
Morocco is generally safe, but don’t tempt fate. Use common sense when walking in unknown places, especially at night. Keep valuables close and carry your bag in front of you especially in souks and beaches. If you’re traveling with a driver, take your bag when you leave the car—he’s a driver, not a bodyguard. And yes, pickpockets exist. They’re fast and very discreet.
Dress Code
Morocco is diverse, but modesty is appreciated. The traditional “djellaba” is worn by locals, but tourists aren’t expected to adopt it unless they’re feeling theatrical. In rural or conservative areas, modest clothing helps avoid unwanted attention.
Taxis
Two types:
- Grand taxis (big, usually Mercedes, intercity)
- Petit taxis (small, city-bound, take up to 3 persons)
Always negotiate the fare unless the driver agrees to use the meter—which is about as common as coconut trees in Sahara.
I read that they just introduced Uber in Casablanca and Marrakech. Don’t know how reliable it is. Worth checking.
Moroccan Food: A Love Letter with Footnotes
We arrived with high hopes and empty stomachs. Let’s start with the basics: olive oil here is fantastic—and so cheap we half‑seriously wished we’d hired a tanker to haul it across the Atlantic back to Canada. The same goes for saffron (minus the tanker, but definitely for the quality and price).
Moroccan cuisine is famous, and rightly so—especially the street food. Briouats (crispy pastries stuffed with meat or cheese) were addictive. Tangia (not tagine!), a slow-cooked stew of beef or lamb with preserved lemon and spices, was a highlight—especially in Marrakech’s Jemaa El Fna square, where the food is good and the chaos is for free.
Tangia Pots
Couscous
Couscous deserves its reputation. In Morocco, it’s fluffy and delicate. It’s not just technique—its knowledge passed down through generations and seasoned with love.
Pastilla
But then there’s the sweet-savory conundrum, but much sweeter than savory. Moroccans love sugar. Not just in desserts, but in main courses. For someone who prefers salty, spicy, and hot food, this was a challenge. Take pastilla: a sweet chicken pie topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. It’s like dessert crashed into dinner and nobody called the authorities.
Tagine
Now, brace yourself for heresy: I don’t like tagine. There, I said it. The ones I had in restaurants were underwhelming—boiled meat or vegetables with a hint of spice and a lot of sweetness. Maybe homemade tagine is better. Maybe I just don’t like boiled meat. Either way, it wasn’t my cup of tea (pun intended).
Tea Pouring Ritual
Speaking of tea: I don’t drink it unless I’m so sick I forget my own name. So I can’t comment on Moroccan mint tea, except to say the pouring technique is impressive enough to warrant its own TED Talk. Pouring tea from height is part of a hospitality ritual to guests, symbolizing respect and the host’s skill. It also aerates the tea to enhance its aroma, mixing the ingredients (tea, mint, and sugar) in the pot, creating a layer of foam (or “crown”) on top, and quickly cooling the hot tea to a drinkable temperature.
What’s interesting is that in Asturias, the region in Northern Spain which is probably the farthest from Morocco than any other part of Spain, they pour cider (which is their main alcoholic beverage) in the same way. It is a ritual called escanciar, and they say it releases the cider aromas. I could not find any connection between the two practices, which probably evolved separately.
That’s how they pour tea in Morocco. This is what I call skill.
Where did we start and another kudos
Our tour of Morocco started and ended in Casablanca. I cannot say that we covered the entire country, but I feel that we did not miss any important spot, except perhaps Meknes that was undergoing complete renovations.
We landed in Casablanca and Muhammad, the driver who self-proclaimed himself as “the best driver in Morocco” picked us up from the airport and drove us to Rabat, our first stop on the 18-day visit. He was supposed to be with us only for this short drive, but ended up driving us the entire tour. He is funny, knowledgeable and helpful. He always went beyond his responsibilities as a driver to make our trip more efficient and pleasurable (including some haggling on the price of olive oil). We liked him very much and I am sure that he could be as good a guide as he is a driver, maybe even better… Just to clarify that in Morocco, drivers are not allowed to also be tourist guides.
Final thoughts before moving deeper
Eighteen days in Morocco gave us souks, sugar bombs, Sahara dreams, and a driver who did a great job. Between haggling theatrics, riad roulette, and food that ranged from divine couscous to dessert‑crashed dinners, we discovered that Morocco is equal parts chaos, charm, and culinary contradictions.
There’s more to come about Morocco. If you’re interested, come back soon and you’ll find more posts.
Drop a comment—bonus points if you’ve survived a Moroccan souk without buying a carpet.
Highlights
- Loop itinerary: 18 days of efficient, borderline chaotic travel without a meltdown.
- Money matters: Dirham ≈ US$0.10; Canadian dollars = exotic paperweights.
- Shopping & haggling: Theatre with a financial twist; expect to leave with lots of stuff you didn’t plan on.
- Accommodation: Riads range from dreamy courtyards to medieval Airbnb nightmares.
- Tipping cheat sheet: From 1 MAD for toilets to 120 MAD for guides.
- Safety tips: Morocco is safe, but pickpockets are faster than your reflexes.
- Dress code: Modesty appreciated.
- Transport: Grand vs petit taxis; meters are mythical. Uber may have just arrived in Casablanca/Marrakech.
- Food adventures:
- Briouats = addictive pastries.
- Tangia = slow‑cooked heaven.
- Couscous = fluffy perfection.
- Pastilla = dessert crashed into dinner.
- Tagine = boiled meat disappointment (heresy admitted).
- Olive oil and saffron – bring an extra suitcase… and take home as much as you can.
- Mint tea ritual: Pouring from height = Moroccan hospitality.
- Driver Muhammad: Self‑proclaimed “best driver in Morocco,” funny, helpful, and olive‑oil negotiator extraordinaire.
FAQ Morocco
What should I know before visiting Morocco?
Money, haggling, tipping, safety, and food expectations all matter more than you think.
Is Moroccan food spicy?
Not usually — it’s more sweet than spicy, which may surprise some travelers.
Are riads better than hotels?
Often yes, but quality varies wildly. Research is essential.
Next: Part2 – Rabat and Tangier: The Cities You Visit Before the Real Drama Starts →