Uganda Series – Part 5: Lions in Trees, Leopards in Style, and Hippos Everywhere

From Kibale to the Equator — A Quick Hemisphere Hop,

From Kibale, we drove to Queen Elizabeth National Park—Uganda’s crown jewel of safari experiences. We made a short stop at the equator where we were able to stand on both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. An interesting psychological experience, but nothing else.

On our way to Queen Elizabeth National Park we stopped at the equator.

Mweya Safari Lodge — Views, Beers, and Unexpected Dinner Guests

We arrived in the late afternoon and checked into Mweya Safari Lodge. The hotel is very comfortable, with spacious rooms and stunning lake views. The food is decent, the service is good, and the bungalows are spread out over a large area. After check‑in (and again before check‑out), they ferry guests and luggage to the rooms by buggy, which is a nice touch. You can request buggy transport during your stay too, but it’s actually quite pleasant to stroll around — so we didn’t bother.

Especially because animals wander through the grounds stopping by for snacks as if it’s their neighborhood café. Luckily, only the herbivores showed up. With that reassurance, taking it easy with a cold beer felt like the only sensible plan.

The View from the Mweya Lodge Restaurant Balcony

There were warthogs everywhere having an early dinner

… and obviously monkeys

Day 7 — Off‑Trail Safari With VIP Access

Day 7 began with another early game drive. This time, a ranger joined us and used radio tracking to locate lions and leopards. We were allowed to drive off the designated trails, which we didn’t even know was an option. Our agent hadn’t mentioned that this little upgrade was booked for us. Turns out that for a couple of hundred dollars, you’re allowed to leave the official tracks and get much closer to the animals. Tourists who didn’t pay the extra fee were parked 40–50 meters away, squinting through binoculars while we were practically making eye contact. Huge thanks to our agent for booking it.

We stayed in the car, of course, but being only 3–4 meters (10–12 feet) away felt surreal. The animals didn’t seem to care. They’ve probably seen enough wide‑eyed tourists to know we’re harmless.

The Tree‑Climbing Lions of Ishasha

He was staring at us, and we were staring at him

In the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, lions have taken up an unusual hobby: tree climbing. Unlike your average lion (assuming you keep one as a casual acquaintance), the Ishasha lions climb fig and acacia trees to get away from the heat and the local insect mafia and obviously starring in National Geographic documentaries. It’s a bit like finding a secret rooftop lounge in the middle of the wilderness.

This rare behavior has earned them quite the reputation among safari visitors, who might come expecting the usual roar but instead catch a glimpse of a lion lying on a branch.

I’m not sure I would have enjoyed hanging on a branch like this lioness

There were still some lions who preferred a more conservative position

The Safari Buffet — Giraffes, Leopards, Elephants, and More

We saw giraffes gracefully galloping with their calves, buffalos staring us down like bouncers at a nightclub, elegant antlered kobs and topis, and elephants communicating in mysterious ways. It was the full safari buffet.

We’ve never seen a leopard so close anywhere else

Not sure what they were saying to each other

Kazinga Channel Cruise — Hippos, Birds, Baboons and More Hippos

In the afternoon, we cruised the Kazinga Channel, which connects Lake Edward and Lake George. With over 95 mammal species and 600+ bird species in the park, the boat ride was a photographer’s dream. We made hundreds of photos—only a few here…

The baboons made sure to stay away from the hippos

This waterbuck was chilling by the water (where else…)

Taking a walk on the shore of Kazinga Channel

Let’s not forget the birds… Painted stork

If you’ve ever been stared down by a lion, judged by a buffalo, or ignored by a hippo, tell me (in the comments box below). I promise I won’t compare trauma levels.

Highlights

• Equator Stop – Stand in two hemispheres at once. Existential? Yes. Life‑changing? Not really.
• Mweya Safari Lodge – Lake views, cold beer, and zero complaints.
• Off‑Trail Game Drive – Lions, leopards, and buffalo up close—a safari with VIP access.
• Tree‑Climbing Lions of Ishasha – Lions With Hollywood Attitude.
• More Safari Wildlife Buffet – Giraffes, kobs, topis, elephants, buffalos and more.
• Kazinga Channel Cruise – Hippos, birds, monkeys, hippos, birds, monkeys…

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