Uganda Series Part 7: Gorillas Ignoring Us, Buffalos Disliking Us, and Us Loving Every Minute
After a pretty chilly night, we woke before 7 a.m., grabbed a quick breakfast, and headed to the park office for orientation. The weather was foggy, around 17°C (62.5°F)—perfect for gorilla tracking. Like with the chimp tracking, we were split into groups led by a ranger and a couple of scouts armed with rifles… just in case a forest elephant decided to make a surprise appearance. (Highly unlikely, but better safe than sorry).
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park misty in the morning
During orientation, we were reminded that although the Mountain Gorillas are habituated to humans, they’re still wild animals. That means keep your voice low, your movements slow, and your ego even lower. Running is strictly discouraged—unless, of course, you see the rangers run. Then, by all means, good luck.
Here we started gorilla tracking
The trek itself was a full-on jungle adventure. We pushed through dense, humid vegetation with no visible paths—just machete‑wielding guides carving out trails. We climbed steep slopes, clung to branches and roots like amateur Tarzans, and crossed a narrow river via a tree stem that definitely hadn’t passed any safety inspections. A few people slipped, but nothing tragic—unless you count the dramatic gasps from the group. I’m not sure what color their behinds turned after those landings, but no one was brave enough to admit the pain.
The porters were calm, helpful, and clearly used to watching tourists wrestle with gravity. We felt safe and well-supported the entire time.
The narrow creek we had to cross on our way to the gorillas
Eventually, we stopped to put on our masks—a pandemic requirement that still holds. That’s when we knew we were close. And then… boom. The silverback appeared right in front of us. The proof is in the short clip below, filmed by my fearless wife. Sure, the quality isn’t Hollywood‑level, and the clip is quite short, but honestly — let’s see you hold a camera steady while a 200‑kg gorilla charges straight at you.
He was in full “protect‑my‑family” mode, charging toward us like a very motivated refrigerator on legs. We had to hold our ground, lower our eyes, and radiate non‑confrontational energy. Easier said than done when a 200‑kg gorilla is making direct eye contact. We didn’t run, but we definitely redefined the word “retreat”.
One of the rangers smacked a nearby bush with his machete, and just like that, the tension evaporated. The silverback simply wanted to remind us who’s boss—and it was absolutely not us.
The Silverback makes sure that the family is safe
Then he started eating and didn’t care we were watching
For the next hour, I stood in silent awe, mesmerized by these magnificent creatures. They’re so human-like, yet so profoundly different. I didn’t speak a word. My wife now jokes that she’ll bring me back to the gorillas anytime she wants a break from my endless commentary.
The whole family was there—about 16 individuals, from babies to elders. They went about their business, completely unfazed by our presence. Even the silverback seemed more interested in munching leaves and scratching his belly than in us.
They mainly eat the leaves, but sometimes also the green branches
This youngster was 5 years old and mature enough to feed himself
Being that close to such powerful yet gentle animals is an experience that photos can only hint at. Chimps are fascinating, but gorillas? Gorillas are soul‑stirring.
So human…Or should I say, we’re so much like them…
Me and some members of the family in the background
After an hour that felt like five minutes, we had to leave. The hike back was smoother, the weather was perfect, and the rainforest seemed to reward us with every step. At the park entrance, we received certificates acknowledging our contribution to conservation—proof that we helped keep these gentle giants wild and thriving. (Also proof that we survived the tree‑stem river crossing.)
Lake Mburo Safari: A Morning Stroll with Striped Strangers and Judgy Buffalos
There are domestic flights from Kisoro to Entebbe via Bar Aviation or Aerolink, but they come with a strict 15‑kg soft‑bag limit. Anything extra is subject to the airline’s mood and math. We opted for the road trip instead—not just because it saved us a few hundred dollars per person, but because it gave us one last chance to meet more animals.
The drive from Bwindi to Kampala takes about nine hours without stops. We broke it up with an overnight stay at Lake Mburo National Park, roughly halfway to Entebbe.
We stayed at Mihingo Lodge, which was quite nice. The cabins are spacious but spread over a large area (ours was quite far from the main entrance).
View of Lake Mburo from our cabin at Mihingo Lodge
The food was quite good both at lunch and dinner. Meals were served on a terrace overlooking the park and a waterhole where animals casually dropped by for a drink—the wildlife version of happy hour.
It’s Happy Hour at Lake Mburo
The next morning, we went on a walking safari. No predators here, just zebras (which we hadn’t seen in other parks), giraffes, antelopes, and buffalos. It was a refreshing change from game drives—more intimate, more… grounded.
Giraffes we saw while walking in Lake Mburo National Park
…and a family of zebras
We stayed on designated paths with a guide, so there was no real danger. One of the buffalos gave us a stare that said, “I see you and I don’t like you,” but kept its distance. We returned the favor.
This buffalo was not so happy seeing us hanging out at his watering hole
The Kampala Detour That Wasn’t
Sadly, we couldn’t visit Kampala due to a reported Ebola case. I was especially disappointed to miss the dungeons where over 200,000 people were imprisoned, tortured, and killed under Idi Amin’s regime. It’s a disturbing but important place—one that forces reflection and remembrance.
Instead, we headed to Entebbe and spent two relaxing days by the pool at the Protea Marriott Resort. Not quite the same as confronting history, but a peaceful way to end an unforgettable journey.
Highlights
- Bwindi Foggy Morning Trek – Perfect weather for gorilla tracking, less perfect for waking up early.
- Orientation Wisdom – Stay quiet, stay slow, and if the rangers run—run faster.
- Gorilla Family Time – Babies, elders, and a silverback who preferred leaves to tourists.
- Silent Awe Achievement – One full hour of speechlessness.
- Lake Mburo Walking Safari – Zebras, giraffes, and a buffalo with strong opinions about your presence.
- Mihingo Lodge Views – Terrace dining with wildlife drop‑ins.
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