Uganda Series Part 3 – Kicking Off Uganda: Expectations vs. Reality (Reality Wins)
Murchison Falls: Where the Nile Gets Dramatic
On the third morning, we kicked off our tour of Uganda. Expectations were highโand somehow, reality outdid them. Always nice when a trip decides to cooperate.
Our first major destination: Murchison Falls, where the mighty Nile squeezes through a gorge just 7 meters (23 feet) wide before plunging 43 meters (141 feet) into Lake Albert (obviously, coming out of Lake Victoria first โ because even rivers follow royal protocol).
Itโs not the tallest waterfall, but the sheer volume of water being forced through that narrow gap is jawโdropping. Go at sunset and youโll get a spectacle that makes you question every photo youโve ever taken.
Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary: The Gentle Giants (and the Heat)
Before reaching the falls, we stopped at Ziwa Rhino & Wildlife Ranch โ in Nakitoma villageโthe only place in Uganda to see Southern White Rhinos. There are just 47 of them (maybe 48 if someoneโs been busy), and once they hit 50, the plan is to release them into savannah parks.
For about an hour, we walked with a ranger and had a close encounter with these massive, surprisingly gentle creatures. Peaceful, breathtakingโฆ and sweating less than we were.

Rhinos in Ziwa Sanctuary. Even they thought it was too hot.

This one probably had too much to eat.

The young guy was only two years old, babysat by his big brother while mom recovered from giving birth.
Murchison Falls at Sunset: Nature Showing Off
We arrived at Murchison Falls about an hour before sunset. And honestly? Words fail. Itโs one of those places where your camera gives up before you do โ it canโt capture the roar, the mist, or the feeling that youโre witnessing something so powerful.

Murchison Falls from above

Sunset on the Nile
Staying Inside the Park: Paraa Safari Lodge
Right inside the national park โ great location, very comfortable, and no need to pretend youโre โone with natureโ because nature is literally outside your window.
Day 4: Dawn Patrol and Drama
The 6 a.m. Struggle (But Worth It)
We started early. Beforeโdawn early. Too early.
Animals in Africa donโt do lunch โ theyโre up with the sun, grabbing breakfast before the heat kicks in. So if you want to see the action, youโve got to be there when the wild wakes up.

Sunrise in the savannah
As youโve probably gathered, weโre not morning people. But being near the equator meant a 6 a.m. wakeโup instead of the 5 a.m. horror show we endured in South Africa. Still not fun, but survivable.
Big Five Bingo: Full House
We were hoping to spot four of the Big Five. (elephant, lion, African buffalo, leopard, rhino). Weโd already ticked off rhino the day before, so seeing all the others felt like a long shot. But guess what? We saw them all. The leopard was playing hard to getโspotted from a distanceโbut the others swaggered in.
The Lioness: Grace, Power, Zero Interest in Us
One of the most memorable sightings was a young lioness casually strolling through the bush. She moved with the kind of grace that reminds you sheโs very, very good at huntingโฆ and you are very, very good at staying inside the car.

Where was the lioness coming back from?

Then she decided to sit and rest a bit.
Bush Mechanics: The Worst Place to Break Down
Things got a bit more intense when we saw a car stuck on the other side of the same bush. Three people were trying to fix it, including a ranger with a rifle who was also the designated mechanic.
Joseph, our driver, jumped out to help. Brave? Maybe. Reckless? Possibly. But no one seemed too worried about the lioness. Josephโs a big guy, but I doubt even he would fancy a wrestling match with a charging feline. Thankfully, the car got fixed and everyone drove off – no claws, no drama.

These poor people got stuck in the middle of the savannah with the lioness on the other side of the bush
Elephant Attitude: Time to Leave
Later, we encountered a herd of elephants that clearly didnโt appreciate our presence. One of the big ones charged us. Joseph hit the gas and got us out of there. Scary? A bit. Cool? Absolutely. We trusted Joseph to know when to floor it.

He made it very clear that we should leave.
Nile Cruise & Poolside Bliss
A Water Safari: Hippos, Crocs, Birds, Repeat
In the afternoon, we took a cruise on the Nile. Hippos, elephants, and hundreds of birds. A water safari is a different vibe โ calmer, quieter, but not less thrilling.

Elephants on Break: Do Not Disturb
One thing weโve learned is that hippos are incredibly sun-sensitive, which is why they spend their days marinating in water. They have no sweat glands and hairless, permeable skin, so a few hours in direct sunlight and theyโd end up looking like overcooked sausages.

A Bit Crowded There

There are crocs here also
Skipping the Evening Drive: Choosing Sanity
We couldโve gone for an evening game drive, but after our morning success and a healthy dose of adrenaline, we opted for something lazy: a dip in the pool and a few mysterious bar concoctions. No lions, no wake-up callsโjust fun. Pool bars are our happy place.

Thereโs me sitting by the pool bar on a beautiful evening in Uganda.
Drop your stories, questions, or passive-aggressive sunscreen tips in the comments below.
Highlights
- Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary โ A rare chance to watch Southern White Rhinos up close.
- Murchison Falls at Sunset โ The Nileโs dramatic squeeze through a 7โmeter gorge.
- Paraa Safari Lodge Stay โ Comfortable digs inside the park, with wildlife just outside.
- 6 a.m. Game Drive โ Early, painful, but worth it โ because animals donโt do brunch.
- Big Five Bingo โ Elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino โ all spotted, some with flair, one with attitude.
- Lioness Encounter โ Graceful, powerful, and thankfully uninterested in us.
- Nile River Cruise โ Hippos, crocs, and an abundance of birds.
- Pool Bar at Paraa Safari Lodge โ Cocktails, calm, and zero predators. The only thing hunting us was the bartender.
โ Previous: Part 2 โ 17 Hours, 5 Wines, and a Stork with low self respect: Welcome to Uganda
Next: Part 4 – From Market Mayhem to Monkey Business: A Day in Kibale โ







