Tag: Quito travel

  • Ecuador: The Country That Makes You Weigh Less (But Charges You More at the ATM)

    Ecuador: The Country That Makes You Weigh Less (But Charges You More at the ATM)


    Ecuador wasnโ€™t even supposed to be even a part of our 2.5-months trip to South Americaโ€” Galapagos was. Ecuador turned out to be the unexpected showโ€‘stealer. This Ecuador travel guide dives into Andes landscapes, safety myths, cloud theatrics, and cacao that is so good that should honestly be illegal โ€” because Galapagos alone wasnโ€™t enough. Hereโ€™s the unfiltered, 50+โ€‘friendly, sarcasmโ€‘powered overview.

    The original plan for our third South American adventure was simple: Galapagos or bust. But seven days in paradise barely scratches the itch for two travel addicts, so we needed more. Ecuador should have been the obvious addโ€‘on โ€” itโ€™s the same country, after all โ€” but headlines about rising crime made us hesitate. After booking our Galapagos cruise through a local agent who specializes in finding good deals, I asked him the big question: โ€œIs Ecuador safe?โ€

    His answer: โ€œItโ€™s no less safe than any other South American countryโ€ฆ just avoid certain coastal areas.โ€

    He was right. And Iโ€™m very glad he talked us into it.

    Ecuador used to be one of the safest countries in South America. Then, about a decade ago, drug cartels expanded their influence โ€” especially along the coast. According to locals, the previous presidentโ€™s family ties to a drug lord didnโ€™t exactly help.

    But hereโ€™s the nuance:

    The dangerous areas are coastal, especially Guayaquil โ€” the countryโ€™s most problematic city. Even Ecuadorians avoid Guayaquil unless they have family there. Their accent alone would give them away as โ€œoutsiders,โ€ making them targets for muggings. The Andes and Amazon regions are a different world โ€” calm, welcoming, and stunning.

    We skipped the Amazon this time. My dream is to cruise the actual Amazon River, and Ecuador only has a tributary โ€” lovely, but not the Amazon. So we focused on the Ecuadorian Andes, which turned out to be a spectacular mix of volcanoes, rainforests, lakes, lagoons, and waterfalls.

    Laguna Quilotoa crater lake in Ecuador Andes

    Laguna Quilotoa โ€” where the view is free, but the hike back up charges interest

    Cotopaxi volcano in Ecuador Andes with snow peak

    Cotopaxi: towering, intimidating, and still less dangerous than Guayaquil

    Manto de la Novia waterfall in Baรฑos Ecuador

    Manto de la Novia waterfall in Baรฑos Ecuador

    Ilinisa grande volcano in Ecuador Andes

    Ilinisa Grande volcano

    And the clouds โ€” oh, the clouds. They cling to volcanoes like fluffy beautiful scarves, hiding the peaks until they suddenly donโ€™tโ€ฆ and then WOW.

    Chimborazo volcano in Ecuador Andes

    Chimborazo volcano photobombed by clouds

    Rucu Pichincha volcano near Quito

    Rucu Pichincha Volcano as seen from Cruz Loma, near Quito, Ecuador

    Quito behaves like any major city: some areas are perfectly walkable; others are โ€œUber-only unless you enjoy adrenaline.โ€ Hotelโ€‘organized rides or Uber are safer than random cabs. Nothing unusual for a Latin American capital.

    Now that weโ€™ve been, I can vouch for both the safety of the regions we visited and the jawโ€‘dropping beauty of the country. Ecuadorians are warm, friendly, and frustrated that tourism dropped after the pandemic due to exaggerated safety fears. Their loss, your gain.

    Since 1999, Ecuador has used US dollars. They mint their own coins up to $1, but they are not accepted in the US. All banknotes are from the US.

    Ecuador-minted US dollar coins

    Ecuador-minted US dollar coins

    But because they canโ€™t print their own bills:

    • Cash is king. Bring cash. Lots of it.
    • Credit cards are hitโ€‘orโ€‘miss, definitely outside big cities.
    • Many restaurants accept only cash. Hotels though accept credit cards.
    • ATMs limit withdrawals to $200โ€“$300/day with ~$4.50 fees.
    • Galapagos works the same way.

    At the equator, gravity is slightly weaker. Everything weighs about 0.5% less. If youโ€™re worried about gaining weight on vacation, Ecuador is basically the place to go!

    Ecuadorian cuisine isnโ€™t as sophisticated as Peruโ€™s, but itโ€™s delicious and diverse thanks to the countryโ€™s geography and indigenous traditions.

    Expect: Lomo Saltado (yes, like in Peru); Goat stews; Empanadas; Excellent seafood; Amazonian fish like paiche โ€” the largest freshwater fish

    Paiche was a revelation: meaty, flaky, slightly sweet, and perfect grilled. It reminded me of Chilean sea bass โ€” which, by the way, is actually Patagonian toothfish rebranded by a shrewd American wholesaler.

    Iโ€™m a chocolate addict (65% cocoa and up, obviously), and Ecuadorโ€™s cacao is on another level. More on that in my Mindo post.

    cacao pods from Ecuador

    Cacao pods. The magical ingredient in the chocolate made in Ecuador

    Quito isnโ€™t a major hub, but flights from North America are plentiful. LATAM, COPA, and AVIANCA fly from Canada, though all require a layover. United has direct flights from Houston and Newark. other US airlines may also have flights to Quito, but I did not check. Air Canada plans to start direct flights in late 2026 โ€” too late for us.

    We planned an 11โ€‘day tour focused on the Andes, with mustโ€‘visit stops in Quito and in Cuenca, a gem that feels like a country within a country. More about Cuenca in its own post.

    Map of Ecuador Andes travel itinerary

    Map of our Ecuador travel itinerary

    • This Ecuador travel guide proves the Andes are safer than the headlines โ€” and cacao is better than therapy.
    • The Andes deliver nonstop drama: volcanoes, lagoons, rainforests, and cloud theatrics.
    • Cash is essential โ€” your credit card will feel neglected.
    • Paiche is the fish you didnโ€™t know you needed in your life.
    • Ecuadorian cacao will ruin all other chocolate for you.
    • Quito is a typical big city: walk some areas, Uber others.
    • Avoid Guayaquil unless you enjoy danger tourism.
    • The equator makes you weigh 0.5% less โ€” youโ€™re welcome.
    • Cuenca is a mustโ€‘see, and Galapagos is just the beginning.
    • Q: Do I really need altitude acclimatization in Ecuador?
      A: Unless you enjoy gasping like a fish on land, yes. Take it slow, hydrate, and skip the macho โ€œIโ€™ll be fineโ€ routine
    • Q: Whatโ€™s the deal with Ecuadorian food?
      A: Expect seafood and meat, plantains everywhere, and guinea pig if youโ€™re feeling adventurous. No, it doesnโ€™t taste like chickenโ€”it tastes like guinea pig. But donโ€™t eat it mixed with honey!!! Itโ€™s horrible.
    • Q: Can I pay with US dollars?
      A: Yes, Ecuador uses USD as its formal currency. Cash is king and credit cards are not a trend.
    • Q: Can I drink the tap water?
      A: Unless you want your trip to turn into a bathroom marathon, stick to bottled.

    Next: Part 2 – Avianca, Standing Eggs, and Quitoโ€™s Extra Equator